Hirsch 'San Andreas' Pinot Noir 2012
The 2012 Pinot Noir Estate San Andreas Fault is fresh, floral and lifted in style, with lifting fruit and good overall balance. The high-acid style of the vintage at Hirsch comes through in spades. Crushed flowers, savory herbs, iron and a host of saline-infused notes flow through to the finish. The 2012 comes across a bit compact, with hints of reduction that mask the fruit. Today, the overall impression is of angularity. Hirsch fans will have to be exceedingly patient with the 2012 Pinots, as they are massively tannic, high-acid wines, even by the standards of the Sonoma Coast. It is pretty clear that the Hirsch family, along with winemaker Ross Cobb, is going for a California version of vins de garde, in other words, wines built for cellaring and aging. The Pinot harvest took place from September 7-20, with the goal of keeping as much freshness in the wines as possible. In the cellar, Cobb handled the wines minimally. At times, the 2012s show slight elements of reduction, similar to what is sometimes seen in Burgundy. The long and short of it is readers will have to be patient with the 2012s.